昨晚,Istituto Secoli Fashion Show 2018拉开帷幕,过百套由Istituto Secoli卡罗世纪服装学院毕业生亲手设计与制作的服装作品登上米兰Alcatraz的T台。
第35届Secoli Fashion Show的主题为“QUOD SIGNUM”,拉丁语“信号”之意。
身体,服装,象征与意义之间的关联是什么?Secoli给你答案!
The garment product服装商品
The marked sign on the body transforms it into a “garment-product”. Elastics that reproduce the inscription “sold-out” alternate with prints that recreate barcodes as if they were tattooed onto the skin. The elements that surround the body together with the garment recreate new symbolic value.
身上的标记使之化作“服装商品”。反复出现“sold-out(售罄)”字样的松紧带,商品条形码式样的印花,宛如皮肤的纹身印记。种种元素与衣服一并包裹着身体,重塑新的符号价值。
Zero grade garments零级服装
Lines that define the garment that is designed directly on the body. Transparent fabrics alternate with blocks of colour as if they were embroidered onto the skin. Geometry and layers of clothing help to enhance the relationship between body and garment.
直接在身体上设计的服装,由线条来定义。透明的材质,色块的碰撞,犹如刻在皮肤上刺绣。几何图案和衣服层叠,让身体和服装的关系更紧密。
Forms beyond conventions超越常规
Stereotypes and customary parameters that are able to go beyond the body ascribe new concepts and meanings. Over-sized volumes are juxtaposed with emphasised details; pastel tones alternate with rigid lines to create a new volume of the body.
新的概念,新的涵义,让固有的常规数据超越身体。宽大的廓形与精致的细节并存, 柔和的粉蜡色调配以硬朗的线条,为身体创造新的意义。
Colour as an emotional charge色彩,情绪能量
Stains of colour step in as an emotional charge on the outfit and the body, giving value to the individual garment. Minimal references on a white canvas, together with defined lines and alternating lengths, bring out the lines of the body conferring new meanings
斑斓色彩入侵,为衣服和身体注入情绪能量,赋予服装独特的价值。白色布料上的抽象色彩,清晰分明的线条,错落有致的长度,突显身体的线条并予以全新意义。
The fusion of colour with the body身体与色彩的交融
Red fuses with the body as if it were a garment, creating value as a sign. Games of asymmetry, stratification of garments and adhesions draw attention to the contours of the body, enhancing its relationship with colour.
红色,与身体交融,犹如一件衣服,创造价值象征。不对称的玩味,层层黏着的服装,引发对身体轮廓的瞩目,身体与色彩紧密难分。
Geometry of the body身体的几何结构
Intertwined shapes highlight the plasticity of the male body. Anatomical sections can be seen thanks to stretch and juxtaposed fabrics; the anatomical masculine blueprint is an integral part of the outfit.
交织的形状,突出男性体态的可塑性。延展拼接的布料,让体态构造一览无遗;突显的男性体态亦是服装整体的一部分。
The body is sign as a garment身体作为服装信号
Light and transparent fabrics give a glimpse of the body, giving it meaning. The garment dematerialises; the body wants to liberate itself of the worn garment leaving room for fragments of skin that are embellished with new symbolic value.
轻盈薄透的布料,予之以一瞥胴体之意味。服装被淡化,身体渴望从破裂的衣服中获得释放,片片外露的肌肤被赋予新的象征意义。
Perfect symbiosis完美共生
A primordial phase in which man and nature merge in absolute harmony. The floral embroidery that embellishes the garments outlines the harmonious coexistence of the body in relation to the environment that surrounds it.
人类和自然和谐并存的原始阶段。花卉刺绣装点着服装的轮廓,意味着身体与其置身所在的环境和谐共处。
Conflicting relationship冲突关系
The initial balance between man and nature is broken. The body succumbs to its rebellious strength and begins to wrap bodies with garments that are dominated by elements that change tones G and shades.
人类与自然的初始平衡被打破。身体屈服于其叛逆的力量,包裹着身体的服装亦随之转变了色调与形态。
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